no. 14

art and politics: have we neglected this relationship?

I have tried to start this in about twenty different ways, and honestly, I cannot find the right words. Everything feels unnatural and unsettling; a deep case of writer’s block. So, this is what we’re working with. The topic of this piece is everyone’s favourite - politics.

Politics has always been surrounded by strong opinions, rightly so. But I must confess that when I was younger, I simply did not understand it. I never really processed how it affected me, and of course, I wouldn’t have not voted, but I just found the whole process of finding out your political opinions boring and tedious. But obviously, growing up and just observing the world has knocked some sense into me (thankfully). Might have also been the economics phase of my life, but I guess we’ll never know. But it is something I think about. I see so many young individuals who simply do not care. They don’t vote. They don’t really pay attention. As someone who is constantly surrounded by family and peers who discuss politics at length on a day-to-day basis, I wonder how it is even possible to be so unaware. Oh, to be in such a privileged position. Now, politics in itself is such a wide discussion. Plenty of opinions. But one thing I’ve heard less about is politics within the creative industries. How does it affect it -  if it does at all? Of course, political change will affect every industry globally, but why do some people fail to recognise this?

Looking objectively at the facts, it would be silly not to acknowledge the impact the fashion industry has on a global scale. It employs hundreds of millions of people across the globe and contributes trillions of dollars to our economy. From the conception of a garment to the entire supply chain and their ultimate disposal, we cannot replicate the impact this market has on us. It would be misleading to think that it isn’t affected by politics. A change in public policy could affect employment, agriculture, and manufacturing, and completely change the way this industry is built. From environmental, social, and political issues, we cannot neglect the effect of fashion.

And when it comes down to it, is fashion inherently political?

Conversations I’ve had with people about this can go about one in two ways. The first is in total alignment with the previously mentioned statement. How can fashion not be political? Fashion is how we present ourselves to the world. It’s a mirror. An expression of our opinions, what we believe, and ultimately who we are. From which brands we choose to buy from to where a product is made, these small things add up to create our buying habits, and the political nature of them. The other response, if you hadn’t guessed, is how can fashion be political? Fashion is an art form, and it stands in itself. Artistic license and decisions are purely based on the desired outcome and, dare I say, the target aesthetic the artist is trying to achieve.

Of course, there’s some sort of merit in both arguments, but as someone who tends to think and relate everything to politics, I can firmly say that everything is political. Especially fashion.

One of the first things you can notice about someone is how they dress. That’s not necessarily my experience or opinion; it is something that everyone does, whether they notice or not. When on the tube, how many times have people looked you up and down, examining you? The clothes we wear show others a part of our personality without ever speaking. Think back to the sheer amount of thought that went into deciding what you’re going to wear on non-uniform days at school. To show everyone how stylish you are. How cool you are. With a uniform, everyone’s equal. No space for judgment.

If we take a look at the Black Panthers, they resisted power and seized what they could, and whilst doing so, created their own uniform of leather jackets and berets, which secured their role as a counter-police force and the recognition of their actions. A more relevant example is Vivienne Westwood and her political statements, most importantly referring to climate change and other issues such as anti-capitalism and anti-establishment. Her brand was a vehicle for her beliefs, and her clothes a sign of protest for what she believed in. Wearing slogan t-shirts, or a particular brand, or even cultural pieces, fashion can be a way to integrate our personal beliefs for everyone to see. Loud and proud. Historically, dressing for yourself in terms of status was always vital - especially for the “lower-class” and the “commoners”. To them, it represented who they were. And to this day, who we are and what we believe in.

So to an extent, aren’t politicians a representation of our beliefs?

If we look at the way politicians operate, the most important aspect is the first impression they make on the public and their image. During so many campaigns, mainly Presidential, we can see people analysing candidates’ looks. More often than not, it’s the wives who come under the microscope for their fashion choices and looks, which opens up the discussion of why women are increasingly scrutinised for their fashion choices as opposed to men. But that's a separate issue.

A recent and relatable example of this is Rama Duwaji, the newly appointed First Lady of New York City. From Zohran Mamdani’s mayoral campaign, one of the major talking points was about her and how she dresses and her sense of personal style while supporting her husband. How numbers of people were outraged at her wearing boots worth hundreds of dollars? Consider the optics. Social media was breaking down her looks, as well as her professional and personal relationships. It makes you think about the way she looks, and her relationship with her husband adds points to her likability and credibility, as well as his. After all, would we really want an unstylish person in office?

Art has the potential to be an expression of anything we want it to be. It is subjective, if you haven’t heard. What we infer from a piece is completely different to each other, and that’s what’s great about it. It gives us the freedom to communicate, and from what we can see in the past, art is a perfect way to demonstrate our views and beliefs - no matter what they are.

Politics affects us whether we want it to or not. And perhaps to some an unlikely pairing, art and politics go hand in hand. It is a mirror of our world. It is a mirror of us. And if the relationship between the two is unclear, I’d suggest maybe looking a bit harder.

By Natasha Joshi